Louis Vuitton Honour Virgil Abloh at SS23 Runway Show

It’s hard to speak of Louis Vuitton without a tone of sentiment over the great renaissance Virgil Abloh brought to the high fashion brand that connected LV with the culture that has been one of their largest proponents since the early 90s.

After Virgil’s passing last November, the subsequent Louis Vuitton shows have pointed to their North Star in a way the man himself would be proud of. The latest SS23 show is the first to be designed by the Louis Vuitton in-house menswear team since Virgil’s death and his influence was still very much present, as it will likely be for years to come. 

The show, titled “Strange Math” was held at the Louvre museum and kicked off with a performance from the FAMU band of Florida A&M University, with the musicians decked out in overtly collegiate garb as cameras panned down a winding staircase through to a room of models glued to their phones, then finally entering out onto the central structure that played host to the rest of the event. The toy racetrack or ‘yellow brick road’, acted as both a metaphor for a path towards hope and a “magnified playground” for the imaginative looks that would tread upon the walkable piece of art.

The upbeat tune of snares and cymbals came to an abrupt end to welcome in none other than Kendrick Lamar, who’s beat for Savior - Interlude played as part of a fitting score to the show, coming from his most recent album Mr. Morale and the Big Steppers, which mirrors Louis Vuitton’s SS23 collection and influence in its exploration of past grievances and the struggles of moving forward.

As the melody plays, a series of formal outfits meander down the yellow brick road, exposing sharply cut suits and overcoats adorned with floral buttons and embroidery, pointy cravats and all forms of luggage, featuring bright white LV embossment in an all-over pattern.

As Kendrick Lamar’s “Virgil chant” fades out alongside the finery, the non-interlude of Savior begins to fill the speakers whilst monogrammed denim-fits take to the stage, firstly featuring a heavily distressed denim two-piece, fixed with beaded tassels and more floral stitching on the cap.

Another double dose of monogram print appeared on an over-dyed purple suede combination which complimented the acid-house look with a lime green, ombré duffle bag - the same print was present on a selection of following accessories. An eclectic mix of outfits soon materialised, with a range of aesthetics, from a bright orange, letterman bomber to big-pocketed technically proficient jackets, adding to the repertoire of colourful additions. More conceptual looks took place in the form of paper plane-attached tuxedos and euphemistic boombox backpacks.

As Kendrick continued to rap through a solid portion of his latest discography, a flood of Virgil-inspired looks travelled the runway, with select models carrying a rainbow flag, harking back to Virgil’s debut Louis Vuitton collection which took place on a rainbow stage.

The FAMU crew then closed the show, giving the feel of a patriotic send off to the former general of Louis Vuitton, signifying that the LV team have possibly passed through to at least the penultimate stage of the grieving process - acceptance and hope, hope we can share in, through the knowledge that Virgil’s legacy is in safe hands for the future.